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The Makeup Show’s James Vincent weighs in on top trends in cosmetics.
August 19, 2019
By: Melissa Meisel
Bold brights, dramatic deep shades and textures ranging from shimmers to glitters to high shine glosses have captured the collective imagination of color cosmetics creators and consumers. As director of education and artistry for The Makeup Show, James Vincent’s passion for the art of cosmetics has included nearly every genre of makeup artistry—film and theatre, television and celebrity work, editorial and runway work and includes training and product development positions. His resume includes clients like designers Ashton Michael, Charlotte Ronson and Samantha Pleet and musicians like Lady Gaga, Florence and the Machine, Courtney Love, Joan Jett and the Foo Fighters. Vincent took time to chat with Happi about big makeup trends for the season. Happi: What qualities are shoppers looking for in color cosmetics and where do they go to find the latest products? JV: Makeup trend in the last few seasons has focused on colors and textures that would once be considered unwearable; such as, brights, deep shades, shimmers, glitter. We are also seeing a trend of high intensity liners, metallics and exaggerated lashes and brows. All of these products are expected to be long-wear and wearable by a global makeup community. The Instagram influence on makeup cannot be denied. With so many demands being made for makeup that delivers high performance and pigment, clients have turned to makeup-driven stores like Sephora and Ulta for their selection and availability. We have also seen brands benefit from having an online presence due to the promotion of their product by influencers on YouTube and Instagram. The traditional models of cosmetic commerce are faltering as many of the traditional brands are failing to meet the needs of the makeup wearer. Happi: What are the hottest trends right now in color cosmetics? JV: Glitter has managed to make its way from kids’ craft projects to fashion in a major way. We saw glitter and shimmer in the form of jewel and foil finishes on the eyes at Giambattista Valli, glitter lips at Jeremy Scott, crystal finish at Valentino and metallic eyes at Versace. Every artist from Val Garland to Pat McGrath is bringing it again this season. Lemonhead LA offers easy to control glitter without the difficult clean up. Shadow palettes like Viseart make it easy to bring jewel tones to the eyes. For metallics, Mehron Metallic Powder is ideal for real gold and silver touches, try the rose gold for the eyes and lips for an unforgettable look. Stila gives glitter a fashion forward look for eye and lip with a collection of jewel tones, glitters and metallics that are perfect for the pro or everyday makeup wearers. Glitter in bright pops of primary and intense metals that range from gold to bronze, as well as cool metals like silver and platinum, are everywhere. Happi: What about for lipsticks and other lipcolor? JV: Red is the must-wear color for the lip. NYC and London are showing stained reds, deep vampy burgundy and warmer reds. Paris Fashion Week embraced pillbox reds at Givenchy, orange reds and deep, burgundy tones at Moschino, and more. Look to Smashbox Cosmetics and Make Up For Ever for the largest selection of lip looks. Hollywood favorite Stillazi has lip color in gorgeous sheer textures that allow anyone to dare to wear the red lip. Happi: Are there any particular ingredients that are popular right now in makeup and why? JV: As states decide and determine for themselves how marijuana will benefit their businesses, ingredients like hemp and CBD oil are everywhere. From mascara formulation at indie brands like Milk Makeup to hand cream and facial toner, people realize this weed that was once demonized has many beauty benefits Hyaluronic acid is an ingredient that has been talked about for the past few years, but in this age of selfies and such busy lifestyles, it is the perfect ingredient to add to moisturizers and primers to provide the plump and dewy, glowing skin that is so coveted. TwinMedix has introduced a much talked about moisturizer/primer for the professional and consumer community that is taking on some of the industry titans. With an affordable price point and modern ingredient list, it is already a favorite of makeup pros and their clients will soon follow. The beauty industry is embracing wholeness and wellness and looking to more natural options, so essential oils are in the spotlight. Companies like Mario Badescu, and Rebels and Outlaws are becoming favorites of New York City's pro skin and makeup community. With their commitment to using organic Hydrosol and essential oil, this allows for makeup wearers to use their toners and potions to prepare the skin before moisturizer and makeup, as well as freshen their makeup at any time of the day making it look better and last longer. Happi: How is the athleisure/ath-beauty trend impacting the market? JV: With the impact of athleisure, we see people want to look healthy and natural, at least with complexion product. This season it was a truly glowing, natural look. Start by gently exfoliating with TwinMedix Resurface, a non granual exfoliant that gets rid of dry and dead skin. Balance your skin pH and your energy by protecting and moisturizing with brands like Perricone MD and Mario Badescu. For coverage, try airbrush makeup with Mineral Air or Kett Cosmetics for a flawless finish that looks natural and lasts through the intense workout, giving you a flawless natural look all day and into the evening. Try Limelife by Alcone One Drop Wonder and Dew Date for skin that has exceptional glow without the grease or add Danessa Myricks' Dew Wet Balm for a just worked out sexiness on the skin. Athleisure has also impacted the way people want to look natural but polished. Warm tones are perfect for giving some summer radiance and the summery look, ranging from a hint of bronzer to a golden tan. Prabal Gurung, Alberta Ferretti and Michael Kors, and Chanel are just a few of the fashion legends leading us to beachy beauty. Danessa Myricks' Beauty Oil brings a sensual radiance to the skin with actual gold leaf. Melanie Mills Hollywood gives you gorgeous gleam from head to toe in shades from Rose Gold to Bronze, letting any makeup wearer look like a summer goddess. Happi: What future trends in color cosmetics should we be on the lookout for in the market? JV: Bold brows are big business this season, as they are an easy way to soften the intense lines and bold color and texture of shadow and shape we are seeing. Pens and pencils pair well with brow gels, offering an option for brow makeup that offers the intensity of the brows we have been seeing the last few seasons, without the hard edges that have been so popular. Senna Cosmetics' Brow Book and Kevyn Aucoin's Eye Brow pencils are the perfect way to create a brow that offers drama without looking down market. People want makeup that can be used in eye, lip and cheek. Cream product like Danessa Myricks' ColorFix and Cushion Color have become a staple of the professional artist, as she offers a large array of shades that stay put in any area of the face. Make Up For Ever’s Artist Pencils and Artist Color are also long-wear products that can be used anywhere and offer unlimited possibility.
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